BYRON BAY
Byron Bay, place of easy summer living with a dose of global boho, is an easy day trip from the Gold Coast. Well, actually, not so easy when you're travelling in the very back of a Kia Carnival people mover lurching and rocking its way along the highway on a rather windy day! No matter, we are on a road trip; three couples off down the coast to explore what's on offer.
We arrive in this much-hyped township where soft white sand and rolling waves stretch either way up the coast, as to be expected, and the bright white lighthouse stands proudly on the headland. Cape Byron - most easterly point of Australia.
The beach itself is the usual formula, nice in every way. The surf is not really pumping today but the water looks inviting and there are plenty of people frolicking in the sea. 'See' being the operative word here. Bikinis and bods and babes and boardies everywhere. The bold and beautiful of Byron Bay are out in force.
Shops with quirky names offer colourful collections of all things summery and the burgers for lunch at the iconic hotel opposite the beach taste extra good when matched with rose, an ocean view and easy banter.
The beach is reasonably crowded in the early afternoon heat and, here in NSW, it's school holiday time. And, as it always is here, tourist time. All manner of languages and accents abound, floating on the breeze. I declare the people-watching to be more intriguing and unpredictable than the breaking waves.
People of all nationalities are enjoying summer bliss as a small boy from a far-off land suddenly falls off the path into some rocks in a bawling heap. The bad brother who caused the catastrophe gets a telling off in a Balkan language and runs off in gleeful defiance of his svelte young blond mum. An English duo next to me are bickering and an old guy who looks like he's been directly transported from a Croatian beach struts along muttering aloud in a harmlessly happy manner. Girls in short shorts wander by in groups. Newly arrived backpackers survey the scene in excited awe. Surf dudes are a dime a dozen.
There are kids squealing with delight and others screaming as they are popped under beach showers to rinse off hot summer sun and sand. I can spot as many buggies as surfboards. Actually, more. Exasperated parents merge with young carefree couples who have barely thought about parenthood.
There's an essence to the locals, easier to observe than explain. Bronzed young women stroll with bohemian elegance, most with long sun-bleached hair teamed with maxi dress and accompanied by a mini-me. Groups of young guys ooze an easy summer vibe in the streets, discussing surfboards and point breaks as if they were the most vital things on earth. In this part of 'Straya' they possibly are.
It's wall to wall bikinis here. No matter which part of the world you hail from, being seen at your beach-best is all part of the equation. Sadly, they haven't yet banned mature men from wearing Speedos but they probably should start thinking about a bye-law. Although this is probably more urgent back on the Gold Coast.
The horizon darkens and a tropical downpour is brewing out to sea. A couple of hours later, as we are enjoying a relaxing wine, the rain comes in a sudden and heavy burst. The temperature drops a notch or two but the warmth remains.
As the locals batten down the hatches with practiced ease, we pile aboard the Kia and make our way back to Queensland. Problem is, it's raining even harder back in Broadbeach. We decide to go for a Thai meal not far from our apartment. Getting there means getting wet but the food is delicious and as we reflect on a relaxed and highly pleasant day over a hearty red wine, all is well with the world.
